Wednesday March 21
We headed off early ahead of Psycho Puss as they had to drop their visitors off. We drifted along under spinnaker for a few hours. Lea cleaned and lubricated all the press studs on the hatch covers. A few were badly corroded so I drilled these out and replaced them. It was an easy 50Nm passage nice and peaceful with no engines on. The charts were all way out in this area so we were grateful for our satellite maps on Ovitalmap. We had to weave around a couple of islands to avoid the shallow passage between them that we had planned to go through.
Lea did her naked jump into the water on the equator and got quite a fright when she realised how fast the boat drifted away from her thinking King Neptune wanted to keep her as a mermaid.
Lucky we both didn’t jump in.
We enjoyed a gentle waft under screecher down the channel past Telos Town, a quaint looking fishing village with a decent concrete wharf and small timber waterfront homes.
We dropped anchor in the bay at the bottom of the channel 3Nm from Telos Town. A beautiful anchorage overlooking the sand spit on Sibaranuk to the south.
It didnt take long for the canoes to arrive offering us coconuts. I enjoyed chatting to a couple of local boys and sent them off to get us a pinapple and some bananas. They came back with a huge pineapple and drove a hard bargain. It cost us $4.50 AUD and a pair of old sunglasses and turned out to be a bit overripe but it was all good fun.
Psycho Puss soon arrived and anchored close by to enjoy a quiet night alone for the first time in the trip.
Thursday March 22
We took the dinghies and the jerries back up to Telos town the next morning. The obvious waterfront Petrol Station is closed and Rod found the current fuel station near the main wharf in a little timber shack. A hand written wooden shingle advertises “Solar”.
We tie the dinghies to the wharf and organise the fuel purchase. The locals are great and are happy to look after our tenders while we explore town. We are accosted by Tuk Tuk’ but they are happy to leave us to “Jalan Jalan”. Clean, tidy homes many with shop fronts and friendly locals. At the little wet market we bought a freshly killed chicken each. We left the propriator with the feet and necks. Plently of good fresh veggies.
It is mainly a Christian Community although there is a big Mosque in the centre of town. Our fuel took a bit longer than anticipated as we cleaned out their stock so motorbikes were dispatched with our jerries to be filled elsewhere. In the meantime we chatted to a nice young man from Lake Toba. He was here with a team doing a government Census on a random selection of households in the town.
Back on the boats with fuel all loaded we took the dingies accross the strait to the sand spit on Sibaranuk. Another yacht sails past, the first we have seen on the trip.
We enjoyed a swim but were wary of the very strong currents and a beach walk.
Even time for a little romance.
Afternoon motorsail down to Sipika watching the reefs and breaking swells very carefully.
Sipika is a well protected, large, calm anchorage. The water is crystal clear. We were soon ashore to explore the new Resort being built after seeking permission to look around.
Palm trees and green grass with cabins on stilts.
The quality of the timber and joinery was amazing. As was the pool area. We met Ovi, the site manager and part owner who invited us to enjoy a swim in the new pool.
While the others swam I had a good chat to Ovi. He is financed by a couple of Victoria Police Officers in Melbourne. The resort is stunning.
The view from the pool is straight out over the reef toward the sunset. Birdlife abounds with sightings of yellow hornbills and pied pidgeons. We could here many more. The resort is $375AUD per night including transfer from Padang, all meals and alcohol and transport to wherever the best surf break is happening in the area. Telos One is the name of the Resort. Fantastic!
Back on board Gemini Lady Rod and Heather are over for a lamb roast dinner. Pam and Craig from Berserker 2, the yacht that had passed us earlier and were also anchored in the bay, drop and introduce themselves. Despite the fact that they are Kiwi’s we invite them for dinner too. They have sailed from England on their little 37foot lightweight cruiser/racer via the Red Sea. A great night was had so now we are 3 boats.
Friday March 23
Rain put off any further shore excursions so we decided to head down to the bottom of Telos to an anchorage called Pasti’s. The route down was via a channel. Psycho Puss led the way as their iSailor Charts were the most accurate. The Google Earth images on both our KAP files and Ovitalmap were shrouded by cloud so not much use here.
At the channel exit we picked up some good breeze and enjoyed a few hours of good sailing over large lazy SW swells. Dolphins popped up occaisionally but they are generally very shy.
We took a wide approch to Pasti’s as the tide was running out strongly and causing the swells to really stand up. Anchored in the very top of the Bay out of the swell. Locals in canoes were soon out to see us but no sales today.
Saturday March 24
Planned a walk through the village and then up to the local Surf Resort. We were guided ashore through the reef by a local. We thanked him with a few thousand IDR but then he demanded 100,000IDR “protection” money to look after the dinghies. He indicated that otherwise our motor might go missing. This was our interpretation and we may have missed something but we didn’t like the vibe so we left and motored further up the shore toward the Resort. 500m on we walked our way through the reef and left the dinghy in the care of some young boys and walked up to the Resort.
We were warmly greeted by manager Bruno from Brasil together with his partner and daughter and 4 dogs.
It was a great set up. Three storey traditional design huts on poles with great air flow for cooling. Great views out over the break.
There are 6 bungalows each with 3 bedrooms
Bruno and his family made us very welcome and we enjoyed our tour and a coffee with them. They are aware of the mercenery attitude of some of the local villagers. They had problems in the early days with them and the Police were called to deal with them.
A great finish to our time in Telos.
Headed off that afternoon in glass out conditions and a large swell for an overnighter to the Playgrounds on Mentawai. Psycho Puss all but disappearing between the swells.