Saturday September 19

25 Nm of motoring with some sail assist and we anchored off the black beach of Amed in Ambat Bay. The bay gave only slight protection and the sweep came in making life unpleasant for the monohulls. I took us a couple of goes to get the anchor in on the narrow shallow gravel shelf in close to the beach. A quick swim to cool off but chased out by stingers.

We braved the surf ashore to enjoy a couple of Bintangs at the little beachside Warung with Cattiva, Parlay and Evolution NT. Richard from Pedro 3 down with a bad case of BB so they didn't join us. We left just before dark after cleaning out the Warung of cold Bintangs.

Sunday September 20

A noise on deck woke us about 0430 so I got up for a leak and noticed we seemed a long way offshore and no Parlay next door. Called Lea and fired up the instruments, sure enough we had dragged off the shelf and were in over 400m of water about 3/4NM off the beach. Did a thorough inspection by torch of rudders and legs to make sure we weren't hung up on a FAD. Fortunately we hadn't drifted into the FAD line. As it was quite calm the reader showed them up anyway. Started the motors, retrieved the anchor and worked our way back to the beach and reanchor. Assisted by our anchor waypoint and the boats that leave their AIS on all night.

After settling back in we had a nice cup of tea then when back to bed. This time with the anchor alarm on. We realised as we motored back in that we were getting hit with strong bullets of wind coming down off the volcano in front of us. These Katabatic gusts had been enough to push us off the shelf. By 0600 the wind gusts were worse so we decided to leave and abandon our plans to snorkel the 2 shipwrecks in the area.

On deck we noticed Pedro 3 out to sea and realised she had dragged too. The other boats were all leaving so we all filed out. A great breeze was blowing offshore so we soon had full Main and Genoa out on a broad reach doing 9kts. It lasted for an hour then died out. We motored the next 20Nm until the breeze came back in from the East and we popped the kite for great run into Lovina Beach, Bali. Lots of weird wind shifts in the final couple of miles so we dropped the kite and motored in. Had managed to sail a bit over half the 45Nm for the day.

At Lovina as at LBJ a boat boy claims you as you arrive to help with any services you require such a fuel, laundry, food and transport. Our boat was PeterPan 18 skippered by Damon and we asked him to come back tomorrow when we were more organised.

Ashore we were accosted by many hawkers. All very polite and speaking good English. Difficult for us to find the line between being rude and getting caught up in their sales pitch. Learnt never to say “tomorrow” as they will remember and hunt you down tomorrow.

Grant went for a reconnaissance and led us to the Spice Beach Club for sundowners. A very modern resort with tasteful Aqua and White decor. A live band was to play the night so we settled in and enjoyed a great night of delicious food, cocktails and dancing. The band was excellent and did a great job. Or Richard missed out as he was still laid up with BB.

Monday September 21

A day of exploration of Lovina Beach. Lea and I walked all over town to get the lay of the land. We found a terrific German Bread shop which sold luxury western foods as well as fresh baked breads and cakes.

Fabulous lunch at a cafe called Rendezvous with the company of a lovely cat that Lea couldn't resist feeding from the scraps on our plates.

New Views arrived in so we had them over for a pot luck dinner. Good to catch up with them again. They had enjoyed a great few days catching up with an exchange student they hosted many years ago. She is now married and has 2 kids but still regards Graham and Julie as family. The whole family had flown over from Jakarta to spend a few days in Lombok with Graham and Julie.

Grant from Cattiva came over late afternoon and had a look at our Genset which was leaking diesel. I hadn't been able to see the leak. Grant wiggled the fuel hose from the secondary filter to the fuel pump and it fell apart in his hands. The rubber had gone hard and cracked. The 4.8 mm fuel hose proved difficult to source but Ray off Parlay came to the rescue and Grant was soon back to fit it all up. We replaced all the sheathed internal fuel lines and were very disappointed with the quality of the old line. Anyone with a Paguro Genset should beware of this issue. Soon had it purring away again with no more diesel leak. Although a slight drip of seawater from the wretched water pump continues. Some problems you end up having to live with.

Sad news from our friends Dave and Anne. Ken, their cat and companion of the last 19 years had passed away. Ken had achieved legendary status with friends and family and will be sadly missed.

Tuesday September 22

Grant and Leslie off Cattiva away for 3 days/2 nights down in the South of Bali as they have never been here before. Ray off Parlay was over early to help me strip the valve body of the watermaker Clark Pump. We had discussed the recent drop in performance and he had had the same problem with his Spectra Clark Pump and was interested to see if the problem was the same. From all the technical literature I could find I had diagnosed a cracked annular ring in the reversing valve body. Rays problem ended up being the “O” rings that seal the annular rings perishing and cracking. We pulled it all down and sure enough the same “O” rings were cracked and fell apart as we removed them. Soon had new ones in and a new set of annular rings plus a new spool installed for good measure and all reassembled. Fired the watermaker up and found it working at full performance again.

That means every part of the system has been replaced or serviced over the last 2 years so hopefully all remains good for a while. Membrane is still producing water at 168-120 ppm. so can't ask for better than that.

Morning coffee at the German Bakery with New Views and Pedro 3. We explored the Pesar(market) and found some avocados for the first time in Indo. Checked out the “Shell Hotel”, an amazing hotel restaurant completely decorated inside and out with shells.


Booked a bicycle trip down from the rim of Kintamani Volcano down into Ubud with Graham and Julie.

Back to the boat for fresh avocado on toast for lunch then off to the Spice Beach Club to join Richard and Carol for an afternoon of swimming, free WiFi and good friends. We discovered the local white wine was very nice and reasonably priced.

Late afternoon we were joined by the Ray and Shaughnah off Parlay, Barrie and Katrina off Evolution NT and Graham and Julie off New Views. Fun in the pool with some races.


Then settled in for another night of good food, friends and dancing. The live band was not quite as good as Sunday's but not bad at all. The staff are getting to know us now and the boss came out to greet us. He has given all of us Rally participants a10% discount at the Club while we are here.

Wednesday September 23

I had a bad night with another bout of BB and was feeling very insecure about doing the cycle trip. In the end I decided to risk it and hope for the best. Richard picked the 4 of us up so we didn't have to leave our dinghies on shore all day. . We met our driver for the day, Harry. He was a lovely young man 6 months into this job and trying very hard to improve his English. We drove through the nearby large city of Singaraja then SE toward Lake Batur, climbing up through the twisty mountain roads to the crater rim of Mt Kilamanti looking across to Lake Batur and the 3 peaks beyond. We could even see the big volcano of western Lombok in the distant haze.

We turned down toward Ubud and stopped at an organic farm specialising in Luwak Coffee for breakfast. Here we tried their, Bali Coffee, Bali Cocoa, Bali Mocca, Ginger Tea and Lemongrass Tea. Graham and Lea decided to try the Luwak Coffee. A small native animal called a Luwak (looks similar to a possum) selects and eats only the best and ripest coffee beans to eat. The beans then travel through the Luwak digestive system, fermenting with the juices of other fruit and Barry's that have been eaten. The resultant scat is collected and washed, the outer husk removed and then processed as per normal coffee. The result is a lovely coffee with no bitterness and a smooth, delicate aromatic flavour. It is apparently the most expensive coffee in the world with bean prices up to $600.00 USD/kg.

After a banana pancake for breakfast finally we were ready to go but the organisers were struggling as there were 26 people ready to ride instead of the 16 they expected. Comms had stuffed up somewhere again. There were not enough helmets or bikes. Eventually got it sorted out and the 4 of us were given our our guide.

2.5 hours of mainly downhill riding at a slow pace to take in the scenery. Mandarins and chillies were the prominent crops at the higher altitudes, changing to cabbages, cauliflower and tomatoes as we descended. Everywhere looked green but a closer look revealed the underlying dryness and drought.

A big event was happening at one of the temples. Our guide stopped and explained it was a celebration that occurred every 10 years and that animals would be sacrificed throughout the day. Everyone was beautifully dressed, many of the ladies in brilliant white intricate lace tops and colourful woven sarongs. White and yellow were the significant colours of the temple decorations.

As we descend to the outskirts of Ubud we reached the rice paddies and took the narrow tracks between the fields.

I was surprised at the level of sofistication in the irrigation system. Some open aqueducts but many underground pipes with circular access pipes on the field corners to divert water flow. However, many fields were too dry and would not be yielding well.

Further down we met the monument and temple builders. They use a mixture of cement and black pumice stone in sectional moulds to create the building blocks for the Hindu Temples.

Some of the Temples are large, community ones but most are private temples attached to private residencies. Temple size and decoration seem to be a bit of a status symbol over here.

This large Temple Gate was guarded by twin Sacred Buffalo ready to carry Shiva.

Entry is forbidden without a Temple Priest. Children and menstruating women are not allowed in.

A short stop for some fresh coconut milk then off into the outer suburbs of Ubud. The streets were relatively quiet and the further into town we got the more affluent the houses looked. Relieved to be finished as hands from the bike brakes and bums were tired and sore. Lunch, after being “gonged in” was a smorgasboard of Indonesian Food and very good. Finished with Black Rice, Coconut Milk and honey for desert, fabulous!

After our late lunch we drove through the hectic streets of Ubud, crawling passed the mobs of tourists and checking out the shops. It would be an expensive day if Carol and Lea were let loose here. Finally made it through to the woodcarving area and were able to show Julie and Graham some of the high quality workmanship of the Balinese Woodcarvers. They agreed with us that although the quality of work was stunning, the subject matter was not to our taste.

Harry was happy to drive us to the silversmiths another 40 minutes away but were were all tired and the 2 hour drive back to Lovina was more than enough. The route back took us around the west of the Island with great scenery of lakes, mountainsides and terraced gardens.